Review: Delicatessen in Hampstead
The sumptuous mixed grill at London's most popular kosher restaurant defeats even ardent meat-lover Angie on her birthday
Some people have the Seven Wonders of the World on their bucket list. Others want to swim with dolphins or bungee jump. Me? I’m all about the kosher meaty restaurants. I was lucky enough to do Pitmaster in Petah Tikva last September and my next rodeo was to be at Delicatessen in Hampstead. Now, I’ve been to Delicatessen before and it is one of my very favourite restaurants, but this trip would be different. This would be a joint celebration of my husband Tony’s and my July birthdays and we would partake of the mixed grill.
Tony doesn’t always approve of my restaurant choices. He’s not keen on Indian food and doesn’t like what he calls ‘that baharat stuff’. A mixed grill at Delicatessen though? Oh, he was up for that. We would go on my birthday.
The day passed in a whirl of greetings and eating, the theme of my presents being Monty Bojangle (if you haven’t had them, check them out). I tried to pace myself during the day, but it’s not easy when, as everyone knows, calories don’t count on your birthday. Tony is, amongst other things, a flexitarian intermittent faster, but after almost 30 years of marriage, I knew better than to challenge his usual Thursday veganism on Delicatessen Day.
I tried not to be too controlling about the whole meatfest, but I did suggest to my beloved that we not do the hummus and starters there as we had to maximise stomach space. He took it well – it was MY birthday after all.
The anticipation was intense. We busied ourselves with small talk, but with no starters to nibble on, the hunger was palpable. And then it arrived. A silver platter laden with meat, meat, more meat and some colourful roast vegetables. It was a beautiful sight.
The table was too small for all the food, but we set about its consumption in a businesslike manner, Tony taking charge and asking the waiter to put our bottle of water on the counter. But where to start? We’d ordered chips and pitta for a bit of balance, but the meat was our main focus. Steak first. We’d ordered medium, again Tony deferring to me as he usually asks for it well done. (Good job we don’t eat treif, as the likes of Mr Ramsay would be kicking him out).
It was delicious, just right – no complaints from my husband there. Then onto the kofta and the merguez, not Tony’s favourites, but he sure put them away. I just loved it all – so, so tasty, but I did have to slow down a bit so that I could try everything.
We moved onto the chicken that had a za’atar coating and finished off with ribs where the meat just fell off the bone. “Mmm, I prefer these ribs to the way you make them”, my husband stated – this would usually be annoying, but he did have a point.
Even the vegetables were outstanding, Tony eating aubergine which he doesn’t even like. We munched our way steadily through, scoffing the chips for variety, but we were eventually beaten with about two thirds left. No space for dessert and we took home a humongous late-night repast for our 23-year-old son who even appeared the next morning for the final sausage.
I cannot recommend the Delicatessen mixed grill for an aid to a good night’s sleep, but we did absolutely love it. Next on my list, PG, is Tony Page’s Island Grill for our 30th anniversary. (Just don’t tell my Tony quite yet).
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